Sardines’ environment packs social, sex appeal
Sardines’ is an excellent restaurant to take a date. It has a nice atmosphere, and pretty good food.
By Fernando Ingles
Skiff Staff

When you mention the name “Sardines’,” people still conjure up the image of a quaint Italian restaurant on Camp Bowie Boulevard where the couples and tables are no more than six inches from each other, the candles are dripping wax on the floor and the live jazz music is permeating the entire atmosphere.

But if someone were to drive down the boulevard to find the restaurant, he or she would come upon a construction parking lot where the Fort Worth staple once stood.

But the restaurant didn’t move very far from this old location.

The owners took everything except the kitchen sink, so they say, and moved a block away to University Drive — a more accessible and breathable location, but still in the heart of the cultural district.

Nothing was left behind in the move, though. You can find pictures of famous diners from Carmen Miranda to John Wayne and Tom Cruise on their new walls. There’s also a 1982 poster of Italy’s select soccer team over an old typewriter and watering can.

The bass players mentioned that even the wood from the old stage made the move because of the good resonance it provided for the musicians.

A visitor can get a feel for the place right from the entryway. There’s just something sexy about it.

They call it Sardines’ because, as they say, they pack people in like sardines. The dim lights and the live jazz make the atmosphere private and a great place for dates.

And the food has its own appeal.

To start with I tried the heavy-laden garlic bread and butter. It was nothing too fancy, but a nice snack while I was enjoyed looking at the memorabilia. On dates I would recommend waiting until the next course to close-talk or steal a kiss, though.

Their table wine (a Chianti from California) was good but not all that complex or deep and a little too dry. But for $15.95, however, it is the wine to get if you are on a budget.

The “Scampi all’ Italiano” as an appetizer was very interesting. The garlic, butter, lemon and white wine sauce gave an interesting aftertaste and texture to the shrimp.

The house salad was very fresh and lively and the “insalata di spinaci” was absolutely outstanding. It’s a warm spinach salad with bacons, onions, mushrooms and a hint of vermouth. The complexity of all the ingredients topped with the warmth makes this dish, if compared individually, the absolute best among all I tried. There are very few times I’ve had salad that tasty.

As an entrée I was intrigued by the “filleto alla David,” acclaimed as the “best steak in Fort Worth.” It is a generous 8-ounce beef tenderloin topped with garlic, olive oil and spices with sides of broccoli and rice.

Indeed it was a very good dish, but I definitely wouldn’t call it the best steak in Fort Worth.

Two things counted against it. First, I asked them to split the meal between two plates and, unfortunately, Sardines’ is a restaurant that charges for this. Although not directly related to the food itself this practice bothers me. The way I see it, it would be the same as charging for pouring wine in each extra glass.

Second, the tenderness of the meat was clearly different between the two halves. One of the pieces I couldn’t chew through, although I have to say that the other half was perfect.

For dessert, I highly recommend the tiramisu. Sardines’ adds an extra layer of chocolate to theirs that enhances the flavor tremendously. And to finalize the meal I would go with a small cup of their espresso. It was full-bodied and as strong as pure coffee should be.

There is a reason why Sardines’ was able to successfully make the move out of their old building but remain in their customers warm hearts. The service was wonderful and the atmosphere added the needed touch. The only complaint I had while dining was the 15 minute break the live jazz musicians had to take to continue playing into the evening and into Sardines’ smooth future.